During the six years I had the privilege of living in the heart of Paris, I learned a lot about the ups and downs of being Parisian.
I would move back without hesitation. But I also sympathize with international tourists who arrive with perfect romantic visions only to suffer a severe shock – known as “paris syndrome” — when they learn something else.
However, never let this stop you from visiting. Instead, know what to expect before you visit.
Where are the Parisians?
The end of July usually sees an exodus of Parisians, with many moving to their summer homes throughout August. The bakeries are closed Restaurants and shops have “Fermé” (closed) signs on their windows.
More restaurants and shops are set to open in August and host millions of visitors for the Summer Olympics.
Pavel Libera | Image Gallery | Getty Images
But this summer, many businesses and restaurants plan to take advantage of the 11 million visitors expected to come to the city for the 2024 Summer Olympics. Many restaurants and shops plan to take a short break between the closing ceremony on August 11 and the opening of the Paralympics on August 28, rather than closing in August.
Get in and move around
Public transportation in Paris is notoriously reliable—unless the workers go on strike. To prevent problems, Talks are in progress Prevent transportation strikes during the Olympics.
But be careful arriving on July 26, the day of the Olympic opening ceremony, when a no-fly zone over Paris airspace will prevent planes from taking off and landing for about six hours, according to the Associated Press.
A woman rides a Velib bicycle past a rental station along the Seine. Paris is adding bike lanes and parking spaces ahead of the Summer Olympics as part of an effort to make the city a bike-friendly metropolis.
Kieran Ridley | Getty Images News | Getty Images
If the subway is overloaded, consider renting a bike. There are about 20,000 Willib bike In the city, there are many shops on the main street corners. Since some roads will be closed to traffic during the Olympics, it will be a safer time to ride in the city.
If speed is of the essence, one of the most exciting ways to see Paris is by ride motorcycle taxi. Once, on my way to Spain, I realized at the Gare de Lyon that I had forgotten my passport. So I jumped on the back of a motorcycle and my driver weaved in and out of traffic to wait for me to run to my apartment and get me back to the station before the train departed.
speak some language
Paris has a reputation for rude waiters, and they become more approachable if you greet them first. Say “bonjour” and try ordering in French. There’s nothing wrong with small talk like “s’il vous plait” (please) and “merci” (thank you).
This is true with any French person. It took me a while to figure out why the supermarket staff ignored me when I asked where I could find certain items. Then I realized I didn’t say hello to them first. A simple “bonjour” does the trick.
Finally, never call a waiter “garçon” (boy). This is a relic of the past and is now considered extremely rude.
Dining outside
Eating out in Paris can be expensive, especially at one of the city’s 121 Michelin-starred restaurants. To save money, go for lunch instead of dinner. Most restaurants in Paris offer a three-course fixed-price lunch menu.
Planche (i.e. cheese, meat and fruit platter) is a cheap and quick Parisian lunch.
Elena Novello | Moment | Getty Images
Another budget-friendly meal is planche, which is a plate of sliced meats and cheeses along with endless baskets of French bread. If you have a sweet tooth, order a gourmet coffee, which is coffee paired with a selection of desserts, usually for the same price as a dessert.
And don’t just ask for “water” as you’ll get expensive bottled water. Instead, if you ask for a carafe d’eau, you get ice-cold tap water, which is free in Paris and perfectly drinkable. And remember to bring a refillable bottle; there are free drinking fountains throughout the city.
Cool down without air conditioning
Summer in Paris is very hot. But visitors are often surprised to learn that air conditioning is not common in the city. Many older residential buildings and smaller hotels don’t have it.
Museums, however, generally remain cozy and crisp—if for the art, rather than for the audience.
Vert-Galant Square at sunset.
Pavel Gower | Electronic+ | Getty Images
To escape the heat without electricity, look for naturally cool places. My favorite place is Square du Vert-Galant, a small park at the top of Ile de la Cité in the Seine where you can sit under a willow tree, just like Ernest Hemingway.
Alternatively, you can wash your face in the large fountain in the Place Saint-Michel in the Latin Quarter. If you dip your hand in the historic fountain there, no one will bat an eyelid.
Escape from the city
Consider taking a break from Paris and its crowds, but you don’t need to go far.
Take the RER A (one of the five lines on the city’s Réseau Express Régional train line) from Charles de Gaulle-Etoile station to Saint-Germain-en-Laye station and walk through the park outside the castle where Louis XIV was born. Its commanding position offers panoramic views of Paris.
The Bois de Vincennes is located on the east side of Paris and offers boat tours, walking trails and children’s playgrounds.
Christoph Lechnauf | Moment | Getty Images
Or take metro line 1 to the Château de Vincennes, a majestic medieval castle. From there you can step into the Bois de Vincennes, a forest filled with lakes, trails and picnic areas, but on weekdays there are no crowds.
Revealed: CNBC parent company NBCUniversal owns NBC Sports and NBC Olympics. NBC Olympics is the U.S. rights holder for all summer and winter Olympics through 2032.
